LOWER TOWN. Excellent wines and well-mixed cocktails are just two reasons to patronize this painfully chic jazz café. It's rumored that Nat King Cole once played here, and live jazz is still heard ­ for free �� each Saturday and Sunday afternoon. The spot is especially popular with a fashionable crowd, who are interested in seeing and being seen. And they like jazz, too. Smart-casual to stylish attire.

LOWER TOWN. This club, located in the stylish Hotel Arlequin, caters to hard-core jazz lovers. Drinks are expensive, but the music is first-rate. Though not many "big names" play here, the local talent is exceptional, and the appreciative crowds who turn out are large. The club opens at 8pm, but musicians play until the wee hours. Smart-casual attire.